Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Djùpivogur, Iceland






























Djùpivogur, Iceland

On August 3rd I took a tender boat from the cruise ship into Djùpivogur’s quaint harbor. Located on the southeastern coast of Iceland, its main industry is fishing and it is also known as one of the best areas for bird watching in the country. Rumor has it that Irish monks and hermits came to the nearby island of Papey even before the Norwegians settled in Iceland.

This particular summer day was overcast and chilly, but that did not stop 5 adventurous dancers and singers from hiking to the outskirts of town. When we ventured off the road into the cliffs, the ground was either rocky or squishy with moss. The colors of the earth were bright green and grey with lots of flowers sprouting here and there. We hardly saw any people as we walked around and the only animals we saw were sea birds.

"The Eggs of Merry Bay" is a new installation of artwork by the Icelander, Sigurdur Gudmundsson. Each of the 34 eggs represents a local species; we are perched atop the red-throated diver’s egg. Knowing there were at least 34 different kind of birds to recognize, my knowledge of birds proved disappointing when I could only recognize ducks and sea gulls (which looked no different from the ones in a shopping mall parking lot). I was unfortunately not able to get to the Island of Papey, where 30,000 puffin pairs breed each year.

Other pictures: the stars painted on the ceiling of a tiny church, a red house that reminded me of home, Icelandic yarn sold in the supermarket (I even saw a young man picking some out for himself!), puffins by a local artist, a picture of the town,a description of “The Beings on the Cliff” - hidden people, and a whale skeleton.

Sorry for not getting this post up last night as promised; the internet connection in the English Channel was pathetic! After a refresher viewing of “Braveheart” I am ready for Scotland.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Reykjavik, Iceland

















Where do I begin? On August 1, we docked in Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik. There are only about 300,000 people who live in the whole country and most of them live here. To begin with, Iceland is an island with incredible geological features - many of which I was able to see. The first settlers came to this uninhabited land from Norway over 1,000 years ago. The site of Reykjavik was determined by the first explorer who said a prayer to a Viking god and made an oath to settle wherever his chair landed when he threw it off his ship. The language spoken there today is almost the same as what was spoken by the first inhabitants because they had little external influence for a long time. The words can be very long because they just add a bunch of little words up to make new ones - you may remember the Icelandic volcano that erupted recently which had to be called E16 because no one could pronounce the real name. They have a unique system for naming children; daughters are given a first name and their last name is their father’s first name plus the word “dottir”, and I, being “Kristin Knutson” should be a boy. I am pretty sure their laws require this naming process. Iceland came under Danish rule a few hundred years ago, but has since gained independence.

I took a bus tour of the countryside during the day, but went out with friends at night - which felt like the afternoon because of all the daylight. The first few pictures were taken downtown. An opera house, a beautiful church (which is the tallest building in the Reykjavik skyline), the ladies of the cast with a troll… There were a few buildings covered in graffiti murals that were spectacular. I have no idea why there were benches on the sidewalk in mounds of earth. My friend in that picture is another castmember, Justin Allen Tate.

We set out early in the morning for Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On our way there, we passed sheep after sheep after sheep… just grazing and wandering around with no fences in site. Our tour guide explained that all of the farmers give the sheep ear tags in spring and let them loose to graze in the countryside all summer long. Then at the end of summer, the sheep are rounded up and sent back to their farms for the winter. I only have blurry bus shots of sheep, so use your imagination. There are a couple of pictures from Thingvellir National Park - the little waterfall and the group of ponds. Apparently there are 4 different kinds of Arctic Charr in one of these lakes, and that is a big deal! This park is also on an ancient geological fault.

The picture of the little pond with the bright blue water is from “Geysir” geothermal park. This was a small area with a few geysers, the biggest of which blew hot water about 200 feet in the air right in front of me. The air smelled like sulfur, or “money” according to our bus driver.

The next picture is of another geological wonder - a lake in a huge crater. Sorry, I don’t know how it got there because our tour was in too much of a hurry for me to read the sign.

I sadly did not get pictures of the volcanoes and glaciers in the distance, but they were there!

My favorite part was the visit to Fridheimar Farm to see a horse show. Horses are a treasured part of Icelandic culture - definitely for riding, and my bus driver said they taste good too… I don’t know if he was kidding. They believe the Vikings brought over Norway’s best horses when they were first settling, and that no horses have been imported in 1000 years - making the Icelandic horse a special breed. The Icelandic horse is smaller than our American Quarter Horse, closer to pony size, but has a chiseled face, stockier build, and beautiful mane. They also have an additional gait called the Tölt- during which they appear to glide. The riders showed off this gliding gate by holding steins full of beer without spilling a drop. I saw almost as many horses as sheep in the countryside - there is one horse for every three Icelanders!

The huge waterfall in the picture is Gullfoss, or Golden Falls. We also stopped at a geothermal power plant which makes use of the fault line running through Iceland to supply clean energy.

In a country full of so many geological wonders; volcanoes, geysers, glaciers, waterfalls, etc., it is easy to understand how superstition became a strong element of their culture. Many Icelanders believe in the existence of trolls and “hidden people”. Trolls live in the rocks and more than one road has a slight detour because the pavers believed they came to a troll inhabited rock. Supposedly, they would have a streak of bad luck trying to clear the obstacle and assumed a certain troll wasn’t happy with their plans. The “hidden people” are another supernatural being who live in the hills and are brightly colored. I can’t say that I saw anything to support or disprove their existence.

Wish I could have stayed in this city longer... next stop, west coast of Iceland!

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Almost to Prince Christian Sound







A couple of days ago, we were at sea off the coast of Greenland. Cruising Prince Christian Sound was on the agenda, but it got called off by a helicopter at the last minute because the ice was impenetrable.

The first picture is of the sky in the northeast at 4 in the morning. (My body clock hadn’t adjusted to the new time zone yet.) I woke up around 9 to a phone call from a friend saying we were surrounded by ice! I was out of bed and on the bow within minutes. The most exciting thing I saw were loads of wild seals - fuzzy, grey, and sunbathing on ice chunks. I also loved getting to wear a fur hat in July!

I had to put on my Packers jersey (thanks Megan :)) so it would feel at home in the frozen tundra. The girls in the picture are Elise, one of our fabulous dancers, and Heidi, our rockstar singer. Iceland is next...

Friday, July 29, 2011

Qaqortoq, Greenland







Qaqortoq, Greenland - yep, three "Q's" and zero "U's"

We made it to the southwestern tip of Greenland this morning! It was sunny and the temperature couldn’t have been colder than 50°F. Balmy!!! The town had a lively harbor and the people were mainly of Inuit descent. Most of the homes and buildings were painted in bright crayola colors - which was striking against the side of the mountain. It must be even more beautiful in the snow. The country belongs to Denmark, so the currency was Danish “Kroners”. Approximately 5 K to $1 - a candy bar cost 5 bucks. I bought a hot meal for lunch in a grocery store. I asked the guy behind the deli counter what kind of food it was and he said, “Sweet Lovin”. I told him it looked like bacon and mashed potatoes to me, but how could I not buy it now? The lovely Brittany Dunn and I ate lunch together next to an old fountain in the center of town. Wool, beads, and seal fur were popular mediums for the local artists selling their creations near the dock. The souvenir shop sold things like reindeer jerky and hand knit sweaters. Since all the t-shirts that said “Greenland; the coolest place in the world” were either made in Honduras or the USA, I couldn’t bear to fork over the Kroners. Next stop; Iceland in 2 days!!!

Happy Birthday MOM!!!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Up and At 'Em!



52°11.38’ N

054°31.69’ W

Course: 31°

OR somewhere off the coast of Canada, heading for Greenland

Woke up early this morning to catch the sun filling up the sky. Armed with my Starbucks thermos, Kirby binoculars, and my little pink camera, I stood on the bow ready for anything. The bridge officers gave us a close up view of an iceberg on the port side, around 6:45 AM - perhaps 100 yards away. Everyone should get to breathe air like this!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Exploring Acadia National Park with the Kirby Family



One of the highlights from the last three months has been spending time with my sister’s in-laws, Clay, Karen, and Kate Kirby. They made the trek from Orono to Bar Harbor on days my ship came in and whisked me away in their sporty RAV-4 for some quality time on land. Whether their car carried mountain bikes or beach chairs, adventure was imminent and the company of family, priceless. After our traditional stop at Morning Glory Café for tabbouleh sandwiches and espresso scones to-go; we were ready for the wonders of Acadia National Park and beyond.


Frye Boots and Arias… on the move

Family and Friends,

As you know, I am no longer in the good state of Wisconsin. Instead of growing sugar snap peas and watching the Brewers, I have been living on a cruise ship and singing for my supper. Today we leave Canada in our wake for Greenland. Sunshine and calm seas surround us as we begin crossing the great Atlantic. Here are a few recent highlights: