Saturday, August 20, 2011

Amsterdam Continued




















































After the Anne Frank House, we walked along the canals to a brighter part of Amsterdam; the world famous flower market. Here, you could buy giant amaryllis, tiny crocus, any color of hyacinth you could imagine, and the tulips… oh the tulips!!!! Vendor after vendor watched after his crates of bulbs and made sure curious tourists heeded the “do not touch” signs. Once you pick up a bulb, it is impossible to tell what crate to put it back in if you did not pay close attention, causing a scandal in spring when there’s a black tulip among someone’s royal blues.

Across the street from the flower market was another corner of heaven - a row of cheese shops. Ladies in traditional Dutch clothing worked the cash registers and gave their best advice on all things cheese. Popular kinds were gouda, goat, smoked, and any of the above with the addition of herbs; all of which you could (and I did!) sample.

I would not be doing Amsterdam justice if I didn’t note one of the unique smells permeating the streets; pot. While I avoided walking through the red light district, I still got a nosefull passing by special “cafes” - even at 10 in the morning! Marijuana is legal here, as is prostitution. My tour guide reasoned, “This way, at least the government can control it.”

Our ship docked overnight in Amsterdam, so the next day I was able to take a proper tour of the countryside. The fields we passed were divided not by fences, but by ditches of water that cut the earth into long rectangles. First, we stopped at a cheese factory called “Henri Willig, Natuurlijk Meer Smaak”. My favorite part of this tour was the friendly goats in the front yard. After they realized I had no treats for them, all they wanted were their ears scratched. Then, we walked through the town of Edam (also known for its cheese). This town had the most beautiful houses and gardens sitting along the canal - and each house had its own boat. The last part of our tour brought us to a windmill farm. I went inside one of the windmills and saw two 3000 kg stones rolling in circles off an axel that turned with the windmill blades. The stones are used to grind chalk for lines in football fields, pastel crayons, and linoleum flooring. Oh the things you learn...

Next up, the white cliffs of Dover... sing it, Vera Lynn!

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Amsterdam: Anne Frank Huis





























From August 8.

A common theme throughout Europe is the memory of World War II. I learned about the war through pages in my history textbook and listening to Grandpa Botica’s tank stories. But, many Europeans have only to step outside their door to walk the same streets Jews were forced to walk with yellow stars stuck to the front of their clothes. On August 8, I visited the “Anne Frank Huis” in Amsterdam. Today it is a museum, but from 1942-1944 it was the place in which Anne and her family hid from the Nazis. The building is sandwiched in a line of connected buildings that overlook one of Amsterdam’s many canals; it was also the location of Otto Frank’s business. From here, he sold a jelling agent used to make jam and seasonings for preparing meat.

The Frank family moved from Germany to the Netherlands in 1933, when Anne was four, because Hitler’s government had already begun discriminating against the Jews and her parents feared future life in Germany. In Holland, Otto Frank was able to provide for his family safely while Anne and her sister Margot were able to enjoy things like the beach and attending the school of their choice.

In 1940, when Anne was eleven, Hitler bombed Rotterdam, the Dutch army was overwhelmed, and the Netherlands became occupied by the German government. Here is an excerpt from Anne’s diary:

“After May 1940 the good times were few and far between: first there was the war, then the capitulation and then the arrival of the Germans, which is when the trouble started for the Jews. Our freedom was severely restricted by a series of anti-Jewish decrees: Jews were required to wear a yellow star; Jews were required to turn in their bicycles; Jews were forbidden to use trams; Jews were forbidden to ride in cars, even their own; Jews were required to do their shopping between 3.00 and 5.00 pm; Jews were forbidden to attend theatres, cinemas or any other forms of entertainment; Jews were forbidden to use swimming pools, tennis courts, hockey fields or any other athletic fields; Jews were forbidden to go rowing; Jews were forbidden to visit Christians in their homes; Jews were required to attend Jewish schools, etc. You couldn’t do this and you couldn’t do that, but life went on. (20 June 1942).”

In 1942, 16 year old Margot was “called-up” to work in Germany. Knowing this could only mean something terrible, her parents would not send her; it was time for the family to hide. The Franks and their closest friends had been preparing the annex of Otto’s business with furniture and food for some time. For two years, the family did not leave the building while Otto Frank’s business went on as usual signed over to his Christian partner. In an effort to remain undiscovered by the warehouse workers below, they blacked out the annex windows, tiptoed or stayed still all day long, and ran water as little as possible. Anne dealt with her feelings by confiding in “Kitty”, the diary she received on her 13th birthday. She passed the time by working on schoolwork her father provided her with, doing household chores, and writing stories. When I walked through her bedroom, I saw the pictures Anne glued to the wall to make it a more cheerful space. There were postcards of grassy hills and streams and trees, pictures of film stars and smiling children clipped from magazines, and a bright yellow poster advertising her father’s business. In the “living room” area, I saw pencil marks on the wall where her dad measured how tall Anne and her sister were growing. I climbed the steep wooden staircase to the attic where Anne went to be alone. Through the window you could see a chestnut tree and the blue sky.

In August of 1944, the police raided the building. The swinging bookcase that so cleverly hid the entrance to the annex failed to protect and the family was discovered. To this day no one knows who tipped off the police. The Franks were first sent to a transit camp called Westerbork where the women broke open batteries for work. Shortly after that, they were crammed like sardines into a “goods” train and sent to Auschwitz. The Frank family was lucky because in the initial sorting of Jews, they were chosen to work instead of being sent to an immediate death in the gas chamber. Anne, Margot, and their mother hauled stones while their father dug a ditch. Anne and Margot were eventually shipped off to another camp, Bergen-Belsen. In March of 1945, both Anne and her sister contracted Typhus which had been spread by the lice that infested their clothing and bodies. It did not take them long to die, Margot first, then Anne the next day; she was 15. One month later, their camp was liberated by British soldiers.

Of the eight Jews who hid in the annex, Otto Frank was the only one who survived. Shortly before their hiding place was raided, Anne heard someone on the radio encourage the people of Holland to document their experiences. This inspired her to rewrite every page of her diary in the hope that she could publish it after the war - making her story known. One of the family's close friends managed to find Anne’s diary right after the raid. She held onto it and gave it to Otto when he returned to Amsterdam. He had it published in 1947.

Pictures were not allowed inside the museum, so I took pictures of the postcards I bought (shhhh). They are of: Anne’s room, the moveable bookcase leading into the annex, the outside of the building (look for the blacked out windows), a window that wasn’t blacked out that Anne was allowed to look through.

Friday, August 12, 2011

Scotland: First Installmentt










































































I spent two days visiting Scotland; the first in Invergordon and the second in Edinburgh. I had a boat safety drill the morning of Invergordon, so I unfortunately did not have time to make it to Loch Ness to look for Nessie or to the famous battlefield from "Braveheart". However, I had a relaxed afternoon puttering around town with friends. We ended up tasting Scottish beer at the pub. My beer was called "T" and it tasted just like Miller Light. Another highlight from Invergordon was the spotting of a John Deere tractor at the dock.

Edinburgh was much more exciting! Saturday, August 6 was a whirlwind of sightseeing and umbrella dodging. We happened to be in port the same day that the Edinburgh Military Tattoo was performing at the Edinburgh castle, so the city was filled to the brim with tourists from all over the UK. The tattoo concert consisted of the world-renowned Massed Pipes & Drums together with the Massed Military Bands and the Bands of the Royal Regiment of Scotland..... Basically lots of bagpipes, brass, and kilts. I did not get a ticket to the concert, but saw the set up for it when I visited the castle.

The "Broadway Street" of Edinburgh would be considered the "Royal Mile". The castle is at one end of it and the British Monarch's official residence in Scotland (Holyrood House) is at the other. The space in between has a Times Square atmosphere of souvenir shops (selling kilts, scotch, and William Wallace dolls) and a theatre district. There is a picture of Holyrood House (it looks like a modern castle) and one of its beautiful gates - also a Gerard Manley Hopkins quote I found etched into the side of a museum. The giant, old looking castle you see is the main one in Edinburgh.

Next stop... Amsterdam................

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Djùpivogur, Iceland






























Djùpivogur, Iceland

On August 3rd I took a tender boat from the cruise ship into Djùpivogur’s quaint harbor. Located on the southeastern coast of Iceland, its main industry is fishing and it is also known as one of the best areas for bird watching in the country. Rumor has it that Irish monks and hermits came to the nearby island of Papey even before the Norwegians settled in Iceland.

This particular summer day was overcast and chilly, but that did not stop 5 adventurous dancers and singers from hiking to the outskirts of town. When we ventured off the road into the cliffs, the ground was either rocky or squishy with moss. The colors of the earth were bright green and grey with lots of flowers sprouting here and there. We hardly saw any people as we walked around and the only animals we saw were sea birds.

"The Eggs of Merry Bay" is a new installation of artwork by the Icelander, Sigurdur Gudmundsson. Each of the 34 eggs represents a local species; we are perched atop the red-throated diver’s egg. Knowing there were at least 34 different kind of birds to recognize, my knowledge of birds proved disappointing when I could only recognize ducks and sea gulls (which looked no different from the ones in a shopping mall parking lot). I was unfortunately not able to get to the Island of Papey, where 30,000 puffin pairs breed each year.

Other pictures: the stars painted on the ceiling of a tiny church, a red house that reminded me of home, Icelandic yarn sold in the supermarket (I even saw a young man picking some out for himself!), puffins by a local artist, a picture of the town,a description of “The Beings on the Cliff” - hidden people, and a whale skeleton.

Sorry for not getting this post up last night as promised; the internet connection in the English Channel was pathetic! After a refresher viewing of “Braveheart” I am ready for Scotland.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Reykjavik, Iceland

















Where do I begin? On August 1, we docked in Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik. There are only about 300,000 people who live in the whole country and most of them live here. To begin with, Iceland is an island with incredible geological features - many of which I was able to see. The first settlers came to this uninhabited land from Norway over 1,000 years ago. The site of Reykjavik was determined by the first explorer who said a prayer to a Viking god and made an oath to settle wherever his chair landed when he threw it off his ship. The language spoken there today is almost the same as what was spoken by the first inhabitants because they had little external influence for a long time. The words can be very long because they just add a bunch of little words up to make new ones - you may remember the Icelandic volcano that erupted recently which had to be called E16 because no one could pronounce the real name. They have a unique system for naming children; daughters are given a first name and their last name is their father’s first name plus the word “dottir”, and I, being “Kristin Knutson” should be a boy. I am pretty sure their laws require this naming process. Iceland came under Danish rule a few hundred years ago, but has since gained independence.

I took a bus tour of the countryside during the day, but went out with friends at night - which felt like the afternoon because of all the daylight. The first few pictures were taken downtown. An opera house, a beautiful church (which is the tallest building in the Reykjavik skyline), the ladies of the cast with a troll… There were a few buildings covered in graffiti murals that were spectacular. I have no idea why there were benches on the sidewalk in mounds of earth. My friend in that picture is another castmember, Justin Allen Tate.

We set out early in the morning for Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On our way there, we passed sheep after sheep after sheep… just grazing and wandering around with no fences in site. Our tour guide explained that all of the farmers give the sheep ear tags in spring and let them loose to graze in the countryside all summer long. Then at the end of summer, the sheep are rounded up and sent back to their farms for the winter. I only have blurry bus shots of sheep, so use your imagination. There are a couple of pictures from Thingvellir National Park - the little waterfall and the group of ponds. Apparently there are 4 different kinds of Arctic Charr in one of these lakes, and that is a big deal! This park is also on an ancient geological fault.

The picture of the little pond with the bright blue water is from “Geysir” geothermal park. This was a small area with a few geysers, the biggest of which blew hot water about 200 feet in the air right in front of me. The air smelled like sulfur, or “money” according to our bus driver.

The next picture is of another geological wonder - a lake in a huge crater. Sorry, I don’t know how it got there because our tour was in too much of a hurry for me to read the sign.

I sadly did not get pictures of the volcanoes and glaciers in the distance, but they were there!

My favorite part was the visit to Fridheimar Farm to see a horse show. Horses are a treasured part of Icelandic culture - definitely for riding, and my bus driver said they taste good too… I don’t know if he was kidding. They believe the Vikings brought over Norway’s best horses when they were first settling, and that no horses have been imported in 1000 years - making the Icelandic horse a special breed. The Icelandic horse is smaller than our American Quarter Horse, closer to pony size, but has a chiseled face, stockier build, and beautiful mane. They also have an additional gait called the Tölt- during which they appear to glide. The riders showed off this gliding gate by holding steins full of beer without spilling a drop. I saw almost as many horses as sheep in the countryside - there is one horse for every three Icelanders!

The huge waterfall in the picture is Gullfoss, or Golden Falls. We also stopped at a geothermal power plant which makes use of the fault line running through Iceland to supply clean energy.

In a country full of so many geological wonders; volcanoes, geysers, glaciers, waterfalls, etc., it is easy to understand how superstition became a strong element of their culture. Many Icelanders believe in the existence of trolls and “hidden people”. Trolls live in the rocks and more than one road has a slight detour because the pavers believed they came to a troll inhabited rock. Supposedly, they would have a streak of bad luck trying to clear the obstacle and assumed a certain troll wasn’t happy with their plans. The “hidden people” are another supernatural being who live in the hills and are brightly colored. I can’t say that I saw anything to support or disprove their existence.

Wish I could have stayed in this city longer... next stop, west coast of Iceland!